As the beloved 360 is aging, so are the components responsible for its smooth operation. In this article I’ll be running through a fault with the F1 transmission in the 360, causing issues with gear changes.

This issue can be intermittent or cause full failure of the transmission, leaving you unable to select gears. See our symptom list below to see if this is what you experience, instead of aimlessly replacing parts.

Symptoms

  • A flashing red transmission light on dash, accompanied by problems engaging gears.
  • Intermittent issues with getting into gear, can be permanent depending on the type of failure.
  • When you first open the driver’s door, you will hear a loud whining noise – this is the pump priming the transmission system. You will want to listen out whether this happens every time you come back to the car after it’s been sitting a while. If you don’t hear this noise, and face problems shifting it’s associated with a failed transmission pump.
  • When changing gears even stationary, no sound from the actuator can be heard.

Things to also check

Before throwing parts at your vehicle, some basics to check are:

  • Transmission Fluid Level: A slow leak may develop leaking fluid over time, this can lower the pressure rendering your F1 transmission unable to engage gears.
  • Bleeding: If any components have been replaced that can introduce air into the system, check the fluid has been bled correctly. If air is present in the system, you will have issues selecting gears.

 

It’s also worth fixing

  • The relay which drives the transmission pump. This relay can get stuck open, causing the pump to run for longer than required causing premature failure. As the pump is much more expensive than the relay, it’s worth replacing both as it’s a common point of failure.

 

The F1’s transmission relies on a pump to provide pressure to the system. If the pump fails, so does your ability to select a gear. Fortunately, this isn’t a difficult issue to fix, nor particularly expensive.

Before we get started, it’s important to note the pump is two separate sections; the pump itself and the motor. The point of failure is the motor in most cases, fortunately you can replace the motor without having to bleed the system. If you replace both the pump and motor, you’ll leak coolant everywhere and air will be introduced into the system.

[Link]

Tools Needed:

  • 1 x 10mm
  • 1 x Torx T30 Bit

 

A great video walkthrough can be found here, documenting the whole process.

 

The pump and motor assembly can be purchased from the dealership for around $1,000, alternatively a near identical part, still manufactured by Magneti Marelli can be purchased for around $250.

There are a few subtle differences in appearance, however both serve the same purpose of driving a pump.

Here are links to both – try and spot the differences between them both!