Trend #1: No Rules.

It used to be the case that specific clothing items were “in” or “out” of fashion with everything supposed to be worn a particular way, and being in style meant following those rules.  Some men prefer easy-to-follow rules, sensing that fashion freedom will create too much room for error (incidentally, that’s where an image consultant comes in handy).  But now fashion, especially casual menswear, has gone the way of the individual - just like a BK Whopper, you can have it your way.  Now, this doesn’t mean you’ll suddenly look good in anything and everything (very few men actually look good in pleated pants), and there are still dated items, like the super square toe dress shoe of the 90’s. However, the old rules of not wearing black with brown, no white after Labor Day, matchy-matchy belt and shoes combinations, etc. are gone baby gone.  This embracing of individuality means that when you make choices about clothes, pay the most attention to how you feel wearing them and whether or not they flatter your physique and are appropriate for your lifestyle, and least about what is ”in”.

Trend #2: No Excuses.

“But they’re comfortable!”  The 3 words men most frequently utter while I’m clearing their closet of Dad jeans and over-sized freebie T-shirts (and they wonder why the spark in their marriage or dating life is gone).  Back in the day, it used to be that comfort and style were elements rarely combined in the same garment. Let’s use men’s shoes as an example. Think of the countless men opting for bulky athletic sneakers to wear with their jeans because they think it’s the only casual comfortable shoe available to them.  But designers have known for some time now that people want both form and function; just because we’re not at the office doesn’t mean we have to devolve into frumpy, undesirable blobs.  Now, no matter what the activity – professional, social, or sporty – there is an easily attainable, attractive option to the purely functional and fugly predecessor.  Even L.L. Bean, king of plaid flannel cabin wear, is launching a stylish, casual clothing line: reinforcing that other than laziness, there is no excuse to look like a schleb.

I was walking my dogs when I spotted these merry gents savoring a cigar in style in the park. They were celebrating their graduation from BU’s school of management. In the center is a great example of how to mix black and brown, our graduate is wearing a black suit, white shirt, and his wide silk tie is a deep rich cocoa brown. The brass belt buckle complements the warm tone of the tie. It looks very elegant without an ounce of stuffiness.

Mistake #1

Poorly Fitting, Dated Clothing -  Men tend to select clothing that is too large for their frame. If you combine that with newer garments cut with an emphasis on a tailored silhouette it’s a recipe for self sabotage. It will be instantly obvious from across the room who is wearing out-of-date clothing. The last thing you want is to give the impression that you or your skills are anything less than current.

The Fix:
Many brands now offer dress shirts in a slimmer cut, a welcome improvement over the traditional boxy fit for a lot of men. These more flattering styles are available from Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis, Geoffrey Beene, etc. The slimmer fit will be notated on the shirt’s tag using terms like City Fit, Modern Cut, and Tailored. It’s also a good idea to pair these tailored shirts with flat front pants – yes it is time to replace your pleated slacks and khakis (see previous post).

Traditional cut dress shirt: Note the excess fabric distorting the torso - Photo courtesy of GQ

Slim cut dress shirt - Photo courtesy of GQ

Mistake #2

Too Casual – You don’t have to wear a suit and tie to look professional. The key to looking professional without resorting to a suit is to wear a  dress shirt and pants that are clean and crisp, with attention paid to the details. Rolled up sleeves, wrinkled pants, and dress shirts in less than excellent condition do not portray a solid professional image.

The Fix
Use metal collar stays to ensure your collar won’t curl under and stays stiff. Select slacks that have a small amount of Lycra in the fabric, this will help them retain their shape throughout the day. If you aren’t going to wear a sport coat or suit add another distinguishing touch by wearing a french cuff dress shirt with cuff links.

Mistake #3 – Losing Your Distinction – Going business casual doesn’t mean reverting back to the college days. You want to avoid losing your identity in a sea of lackluster polos and khakis, but be careful not to confuse distinction with flash. Ironically the photo below is from a Fox News report titled “Dressing for Casual Fridays”, making me wonder if the reporter accidentally supplied us with the Fox News Back Office Intern Dress Code Manual.  Don’t expect to get a lot of respect from your superiors looking like a college kid going for beers with the buddies, even if it’s Friday.

Don't default to the lowest-common-denominator mentality when it comes to business casual

The Fix – Pick up updated versions of the business casual classics with subtle creative detailing. From a distance you’ll simply look well put together and up close there is even more to admire. For example not all khakis are created equal. You could replace the standard all cotton Dockers with a cotton/nylon khaki from Calvin Klein which, although similar to Dockers in the sense that they are also khakis, have a cool modern look with no hint of flash. Also consider a button down shirt with a patterned weave instead of a solid. It’s actually easier to set yourself apart as a business leader in business casual attire because the majority of your colleagues will be opting for the uninspired default polo - khaki uniform. If you do decide to don a polo remember,“stripes are not your friend” (see prior post).

New England in January/February isn’t exactly known for good ground conditions. Mounds of dirty snow, black ice walkways and slush moats can be the kiss of death for your footwear. Here’s a way to protect your shoes from the elements all winter long.

The NEOS nylon overboot slips over any mens shoe. They’re seam sealed, making them 100% waterproof. Plus, the soles have serious traction and grip, which your tuckus will be thankful for.

NEOS overboots are currently on sale at Allen Edmonds for $59.99.

One of the most common seasonal complaints I hear from men is that during the sleety and snowy months of winter they have no shoe option to wear with suits other than galoshes. One client shared with me that he used to cover his dress shoes with large plastic bags and rubber band them at the top thinking he would always get a chance to remove his self proclaimed “homemade ghetto booties” before his meetings. That was before he bumped into his potential customers who had arrived early for a sales pitch in the lobby of his office and had to escort them to the conference room, swishing the entire time.

Luckily, your tireless image consultant has found the perfect solution. Pictured above, the Ecco lace up shoe and boot are waterproof, comfortable and completely appropriate for both business and casual attire. What makes them waterproof? According to Mike Harris, the manager of the Walking Company in the Copley Mall, “They are fully lined with Gortex, an air permeable, water impermeable membrane”.  Sounds like wearing a Spider-Man suit on your feet. Both the shoe and boot retail for under $200.

Who doesn’t love being put on the spot? I attend more than a fair share of events in Boston and, without fail, at least once a week I am approached by a guy wearing ill-fitting or completely dated clothing who, upon learning that I am a men’s image consultant, will stand with peacock pride in front of me and ask “How’d I do? Do I look good?”

Sadly, the real answer is “Not really…” but who wants to make an enemy over a glass of wine and crudités? In my quest for having every man look great, ooze confidence and enjoy a higher quality of life I find myself torn with how to respond. Brushing off the question hasn’t worked; they want an answer and don’t stop asking. I can’t lie. But when I diplomatically suggest something more flattering for them I am met with disbelief and on rare occasions even hostility. I could see receiving the look of death if I’d asked, “Did you get that suit off a 30 year old corpse? Because it’s held up quite well,” or “Are you holding off on altering those pants because a 12 inch growth spurt is imminent?”

Now, because I have fair understanding of the male ego, I don’t even say they are doing anything wrong. Instead I focus on the positive and offer an alternative to the five foot five gentleman standing before me in a double breasted jacket from the eighties: “An Italian cut single breasted blazer would look great on you!” I say with a smile. Yet, there I suddenly find myself in a stare ‘down’ initiated by a man who clearly can not objectively look at himself in a mirror and thinks I’m a bitch who doesn’t know what she’s talking about. I wish it didn’t, but it makes me angry. My purpose is to make men look their best so they’re knee deep in tail and constantly attracting bigger and better business opportunities… and, looking at my clients results, I am damn good at it! How did I become the adversary?

It’s not like these guys are the life of the party, being admired by the other guests or expertly working the room only to have me walk up and verbally smack them. They’re generally hanging back in the corner of the room, watching people mingle and wasting their opportunity to connect with others. Clothing gives someone the most clues about you before they speak with you, including whether or not you are even worth saying hello to. Clearly these guys aren’t doing so hot in that category and the information I share with them could be their quickest way of going from outcast to approachable and from shy to confident.

So I am still on my quest for how to properly handle the out of touch, insecure male who seeks my opinion at social or business gathering. Perhaps next time as I see them about to strut their unsavory stuff before me I’ll spill my drink, pretend to choke on my stuffed mushroom, or simply say “Excuse me, I have to go wash my hair.” Anything is better than being vilified for helping after being asked to do so.

Here a couple of Emmi Award worthy fall coats that will last you for seasons to come.

This Gap basic black waist length jacket is sporty yet classic. It works for casual to business casual; wear it with your jeans, khakis, or dress slacks, but do not layer over a sport coat or suit. It’s reversible, water resistant nylon on one side and snuggly wool on the other. Available at The Gap for $118.

 For a fall jacket that looks great with jeans or a suit, check out this brown low contrast plaid trench. This coat adds more distinction to your look than a plain black jacket and it’s in a neutral tone so you can wear it with just about any color. Water resistant too. Available at Banana Republic for $250.